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| This exhibit is displayed in a low level of light presumably to delay fading of the color. The LX100 had no trouble making a good photo at 1/30 second, f1.8 and ISO 200. |
Those of us who like to take pictures with a camera have a surfeit of choices. There are so many makes and models that choosing between them may seem almost impossible.
One framework which helps me is to consider the requirements for photographing indoors and outdoors.
This little exercise assumes the use of fixed zoom lens cameras. I now use these exclusively for their convenience and versatility without the need to change lenses.
The indoors camera
The main requirements here are:
* A wide aperture lens for low light conditions
* A sensor which gives good results at high ISO sensitivity settings.
* Autofocus which is very fast and accurate in low light and on moving subjects such as children.
* Small size may be advantageous in many indoor situations where a photographer needs to be unobtrusive.
Some indoors model suggestions
For those who feel they do not need an EVF we have
Canon G7X(2)
Panasonic LX10
Sony RX100 (1-2)
For those who prefer a camera with a built in EVF we have
Canon G5X (desperately in need of an upgrade to the new processor as seen in the G7X (2)
Panasonic LX100 (now three years old and could benefit from an upgrade)
Sony RX100(3-5)
Also consider
For buyers with lots of spare cash who are happy with a lens of fixed focal length we have
Sony RX1 in various versions, the most recent being the RX1R2.
Leica Q.
Fujifilm X100 in various iterations, the latest being the X100F.
My suggestions ?
I will not buy any camera without a built in EVF. The main reason for this is that the indoor camera comes outdoors quite often and in Sydney where I live even the very best monitor screens are no match for the bright sunlight which often prevails.
I currently have two indoor cameras, a Sony RX100(4) and a Panasonic LX100.
Each works very well in low light indoors and gives good results even with difficult subjects such as people moving about rapidly.
The LX100 has much better continuous AF and can be pressed into service for indoor sports.
The RX100(4) has a built in flash which can be handy sometimes. The flash for the LX100 is a clip –on type.
Notes I do not consider the just announced Canon G1X(3) a prime candidate for indoors camera due to the small (f2.8-5.6) aperture of the lens.
The swings and roundabouts work in favour of the models with the smaller “one inch” sensor (or cropped 4/3 sensor in the LX100) and a wider aperture lens.
Thus: The DXO Mark high ISO scores are:
Sony RX100(4) 562
Panasonic LX100 553
Canon EOS M5 1262 (the G1X Mk3 is said to use the same sensor)
So at high ISO settings the G1X Mk3 has slightly more than a one EV step sensor advantage.
But it gives up 1.5-2 stops in aperture so it ends up approximately 0.5-1 stops disadvantaged compared to the smaller sensor models. The slightly greater pixel count is of minimal relevance.
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| I have photographed this scene from the same position with many cameras. This one made hand held with the FZ300 prints up very sharp and clear. Any improvement one might gain with a larger sensor camera would be barely visible in the print and then only on very close scrutiny far inside the comfortable viewing distance.. |
The outdoors camera
The main requirements here are:
* Lots of zoom range
* Very fast, accurate AF on still or moving subjects
* Ergonomic design so the camera can be held steady at the long end of the zoom.
* A built in EVF of very good quality preferably with no blackout or at least minimal blackout.
Some outdoors model suggestions
In this case the number of suitable models is quite small.
Many bridge/long zoom/superzoom cameras lack an EVF. If users think they can hold one of these steady at the long end of the zoom while viewing on the monitor they are kidding themselves.
Many bridge/superzoom cameras are plagued by poor performance and/or poor picture quality.
So my short list of suggested models is really short.
Panasonic FZ1000. This was announced in June 2014 so is now getting well into its product cycle. It is still available new however suggesting it continues to sell well. The FZ1000 is the first camera which convinced me I could give up all my interchangeable lens cameras and lenses. It is a classic with a nice balance between picture quality, performance and size.
Panasonic FZ300. This camera gets plenty of use in my family and continues to make very good pictures outdoors on still or rapidly moving subjects. Many camera users, myself included find the FZ300 to be just the right size, large enough to fit a proper handle and controls but small enough to be unobtrusive and easy to carry.
Sony RX10(4) This is new to the market. I have not purchased or used one. On the specifications and early reviews it appears to tick all the boxes for a high performance premium bridge type camera.
It is however quite large, heavy and expensive which gives me pause when I become tempted to buy one. I am also no fan of the RX10 series ergonomics. I have discovered that if I don’t enjoy using a camera it just sits in the drawer depreciating in value.
Some models which did not make it to my outdoors shortlist
T
he Nikon B700 has a decent lens, good VR and decent picture quality but has an old, slow processor which makes for tediously slow shot to shot times, excessive EVF blackout and absent continuous AF capability.
The Nikon P900 cannot make RAW output and also has a tediously slow processor.
The Panasonic FZ2000 has good ergonomics but my copy had a substandard lens. It is primarily directed towards video capability.
The Sony RX10(3) should in my view never have been released. This camera needs the sensor in the RX10(4) and the RX100(5).
What about an ILC ?
The whole point of having an interchangeable lens camera is the ability to fit a different lens for each set of photographic conditions. This suits some users well and that is fine.
But for me it just doesn’t add up.
Indoors most zooms for any ILC do not have the wide aperture (low f number) which can be found on a Sony RX100 or Panasonic LX100. So you have to resort to primes (fixed focal length lenses) with large aperture. But those things are usually large and expensive. And they don’t zoom so you need several of them. This just doesn’t work for me. The kit is too large, too expensive and too complicated with the need to change lenses.
Professional photographers use a “full frame” (using a sensor with a 43mm diagonal) ILC with a 24-70 mm f2.8 lens and often with a big flash unit on top of the camera. That’s fine for them but the kit is large, heavy and expensive.
Outdoors any ILC needs either a large, heavy, expensive zoom, or two or a set of expensive primes and tele converters to achieve the focal length range of one of my suggested outdoor bridge cameras.
Can this very much larger, more expensive kit make better pictures than one of the better bridge cameras ? My answer to this is yes
1. But only if you have it with you when a photo op appears and
2. That extra picture quality is probably un-necessary for most photographers’ needs most of the time.
Summary
I find the indoors/outdoors paradigm provides a useful structure for my camera buying decision process.
I end up with nice gear which I enjoy using and which makes good enough pictures for my requirements.
Those requirements are in fact quite challenging. I want to make clear, sharp high quality prints as large as my Epson 4880 printer can produce. That is about 400x 520mm depending on the aspect ratio of the original.
Each of my suggested cameras can do that, including the FZ300 with its very small (7.67mm diagonal) but surprisingly capable sensor.
Here is a curious
little piece of information:A 400x520mm print from a small sensor (4.55x6.17mm) camera like the FZ300 has an area 7,429 times that of the sensor. Yet if properly focussed and exposed in the first place it can still look sharp and clear with strong presence on the wall.
That seems quite amazing to me.